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How to mount an EDIS wheel for $0.75

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I wanted to post my little finding just in case someone might benefit from it.

I'm running MS2 with EDIS and I have found a really easy/cheap skate way to mount the wheel. And before I continue I want to mention that this is NOT the best way to do this, rather an inexpensive way to test/toy with EDIS.

Parts required:

EDIS trigger wheel from a 1990's Ford Tarsus (or other vehicle with same part)
Update: HizAndHerz found that 3.0 liter V6's without a dizzy have this part.
This is the powdered metal one with all the holes in it.

Two 4mm x 60mm bolts (please double check this)

Two lock washers

Two 1.5 inch long roll pins with ~4mm holes


Assembly:

There are four inner mounting holes on the EDIS wheel, which are about 4mm ID.
The threaded holes in the stock 280z damper are 4mm (can you guess were this is going?). The holes in the damper miraculously match up almost exactly with the bolt circle of the wheel (less than 1 mm tolerance). I almost fell over when I found this. The roll pins are cut to length and used as spacers in between the wheel and the damper. This allows the bolts to be torqued down without deforming the wheel. I put lock washers under the bolt heads and use red locktite. Getting the wheel concentric takes a little trial and error, but can be done to a safe level (I have about 1mm of offset). This setup has been in use for about 2000 miles now.

They way the holes line up will allow the missing tooth to be positioned in one of 4 locations for TDC. I chose the position that would put the sensor in a perfect spot to use brackets attached to the AC holes in the block.

UPDATE: here's a front shot now that I'm tearing down for turbo fun.
EDIS_WHEEL_FRONT.jpg
VR_SENSOR_MOUNT.jpg
VR_SENSOR_MOUNT2.jpg

My brackets are strong but simple, made from angle iron and thick aluminum angle. A long piece of 1x1 angle is bolted to two AC bracket holes and extends to the face of the EDIS wheel. An aluminum bracket made from heavy c-channel is in plane with the wheel and bolted perpendicular to the first bracket. The aluminum bracket has a concentric slot to accept the VR sensor and allow about +-10 degrees adjustment. The way the brackets bolt together allows for 3 axis positioning. The brackets were made with a hand drill, hack saw and hand files.


Well, hope that made sense. I had some crappy pics of this and can't find them -EDIT- now with crappy pics - EDIT-, but if you can fab stuff reasonable well, then my description will probably get you well on your way to being an EDIS cheapskate.


In general, EDIS is easy as pie to setup with Megasquirt and I highly recommend it.

Other EDIS related pics:
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/EDIS_COILPACK_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/EDIS_MODULE_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/GM_IAC_MOUNT.jpg
http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/THROTLE_BODY.jpg

Adam


Q's on FricFrac Ms setup and injector impedance

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So I'm trying to upgrade the stock fuel injectors to 440cc injectors and am having trouble figuring out if I can easily install high impedance injectors on my setup.  I have put myself in a bad place by not thoroughly documenting my build,  purchasing products with no longer existing support and lack of understanding of how said products work (Note to self, don't do that!).

 

Story is I purchased and installed a Megasquirt (v3?) and harness from FricFrac right before he went AWOL, and with his limited help and the help of some good local people I was able to get my car running pretty well. My communications with Fricfrac were often confusing, mostly my fault for lack of understanding and planning, and i failed to document what exactly i had purchased from him. During setup it became apparent that FricFrac may have built my megasqurit under the impression that i was already running 440cc injectors, while i actually was running stock injectors. I believe we adjusted the the REQ fuel settings to adjust for this. I do not remember making any changes to PWM settings.  I had the car tuned by a local guy, and then checked over by TimZ and was able to enjoy driving it through the summer with minimal issue. Now I would like to upgrade the injectors and have been having trouble deciding what to do because I don't know what I have and I am unable to contact the one person who would know for sure. I need help figuring out what i have exactly so i can move forward.

 

My Setup:

280Z

l28et(81) mostly stock + intercooler and exhuast

stock injectors, removed factory resistor pack

Megasquirt V? and harness built by FricFrac (i believe it was V3 i requested, but i need to find a way to verify)

Would like to upgrade injectors and turbo

 

My Questions:

1. What version MS do I have?

2. What impedance Injectors is it currently set up for?

3. If I am set up for low impedance Injectors, am I using PWM,  a Flyback board or Resistors?

4. If I am set up for high impedance injectors, are my PWM setting correct, or am i at risk of burning something out?

5. If I decide to use low impedance 440cc injectors, does a stock bodied injector exist? (barbed fitting, same fits the manifold without modification)

6. If I decide to use high impedence 440cc, can i just install them, disable PWM and tune? ( I know the answer for this depends on the answer for Q's 1,2, and 3)

 

I attached a couple of pics and an MSQ. Let me know if i need to clarify or there is any other info i can grab/screen shot.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

 

Screen Shot 2017-12-06 at 9.54.18 AM.png

Screen Shot 2017-12-06 at 9.53.03 AM.png

2017-12-06_10.01.56.msq

Silly Question about Incorporate AFR Table and the VE table

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Please don't beat me on this one, I have searched all over and have not found an adequate answer.   

 

I have my General Settings set to Incorporate AFR table (enabled).  I have used VEAL and have a good VE table.    Lately, I've been messing with idle and I wanted to lean it out.  I have keep reducing VE values in my idle range and it seems like my AFR never really changes...it may lean a little but then goes back into the high 12's or low 13's.    My stupid question is, since I have Incorporate AFR Table enabled (which happens to be set to 13.0 for idle), what if any effect will VE table changes have on my actual AFR?   I'm starting to think that I could change the VE's all I want, but AFR will just auto-correct to what I have in my AFR table....is that correct?      If that is correct, why would anyone ever change their VE table if the have Incorporate AFR table (enabled)?

 

Tonight I will go and change my AFR table to 14.5 for the area where my idle lives, but I still have the questions above.   I would appreciate your collective insights.

 

Thank you,

 

- Liquid

MS2 No Spark

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Hi I am hoping some of you guys can give me some direction with the problem i am having. I have installed a ms2 v3.0 board on my l28et swapped 280z I had the car running fine on the stock ecu and harness with a z31 coil and prw-2 transistor module. I built the harness using the diyautotune harness all of the sensors are working and rpm signal injectors are firing I can smell fuel when I crank the engine. I did buy the ecu second hand the mods that it has are a map daddy, boost control, and pwm idle control. I am using the 83 distributor with the optical sensor and have it configured the way it's on the how to megasquirt your l28et in the diyautotune site. I have attached a copy of my .msq file and some pictures of my ecu please let me know what else  I could test and if you see anything off in my software or hardware that might be causing it not to fire. Thanks

ms2front.jpg

ms2back.jpg

l28etnospark.msq

MS3X setup assistance needed

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I have built and installed an MS3X system on a L28 turbo motor in a 260Z.  I have it running, and idles, and am getting ready to get it out of the garage and drive it.  I configured the tune from scratch and it is very rough.  I am looking for someone with tuning experience to look over my tune and make suggestions or changes to get a safe, basic starting tune.  Below is the engine specs, and I have attached my current tune.  Thanks for any assistance!

 

F54 block, dished pistons
P79 head w/E30 cam - "B" stamp
ARP head studs
N42 non-EGR intake
440cc injectors
LSx coil-on-plug
T3/T4E 50 Trim with .63 AR (best that I can determine, Craigslist deal)
Intercooler - 11x17x2.5
60mm 240sx throttle body
280ZXT fuel pump & FPR
MS3X running sequential
DIY Auto CAS Disc in 280ZXT dist
Innovate LC2 AFR
2 1/2" to 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust
?? BOV
Vintage Air a/c
No idle control, yet
No boost control, yet
No oil cooler

 

A couple of items in particular I have questions about is that I have under basic settings, 1 squirt per cycle; I have seen other setups where this is configured for 2.  I also would like to use idle timing advance for warm up, and for when the A/C is on.

CurrentTune.msq

L28et Dizzy no rpm Ms2extra

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Hey guys. My last issue is with my Dizzy on my MS2extra

 

I have had it working at some point during testing, but now it is not getting signal in car.

 

I have 12v power in red position on dizzy

I have white wire (tach wire) from ms2 harness in white wire position on dizzy

I have black wire (tach wire) from ms2 harness in ground position on dizzy with pull up resistor in ms2.

 

I have it wired and try to spin the dizzy by hand with no results in basic mode or in wheel mode because I am using the DIY wheel.

 

If i tap the black tach wire to the white tach wire (creating the tach current) I get rpm signal, but through my dizzy I do not.

 

I had one cas that came with the car that never worked so I bought the replacement to put in that worked, but now suddenly it seems fried or something.

 

Is there an easy way to test out the cas unit?

 

Thanks,

 

Shane

MS2 3.0 w/ MS2extra No Spark

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Hello All,

I am working on my Datsun 240z with an l28et swap.

I have successfully wired everything besides the coil and the dizzy with the coil being my next project.

I have installed the Bip and followed the instructions on DIY's site as follows. (everything else is normal wiring)

Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN or the center hole of Q16 (if exists)
Jumper IGBTIN to JS10
Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN (V3.0 only)
If you do not have a BIP373 transistor in the Q16 slot, install it.

I am in TS trying to run the spark output test and get no spark.

I have the test setup as follows...
-12 volts to coil from relay with 15 amp fuse
- 36 wire to negative
- stock 240z coil (does use ballast resistor normally but am not using it in this test)
- plug wire on coil to spark plug
-spark plug grounded to chassis


I have tried....
- switching output from JS10 to D14 (still confused on this)
- plugging in my megastim and testing spark (LED lights up with either JS10 or D14)
- checked volts on coil in car when doing test at 2ms intervals (8-9 volts)
 
 
After more research I have changed the wiring as follows to follow the ms2extra guide...
BIP373 (marked as 30115) needs to be installed in Q16 with a mica insulator.
- Jumper IGBTOUT-IGN.
- Connect a 330R 1/4W resistor between IGBTin and the top of R26.
- Ensure R57 is absent.
- Ensure R43 is fitted or jumped.

I changed the ms2 settings as follows...
- Set Spark A to D14

Spark plug wired the same.
- plug to spark plug ground wire from chassis wrapped around it.



Results are the same.
- getting 9 volts with volt meter on pos to neg of coil when testing as 2ms interval
- getting 12 volts with volt meter on pos of coil and neg on body.


Questions I have...
Which output should I have? JS10 or D14?
Why would I be getting low volts on coil during test? This must have to do with resistance?
Should I be getting 12v with key in start when not in test mode?

Sorry if these questions are stupid. I am still a little confused on some of this and want to make sure I am testing things correctly.

Thanks for you help,

Shane

20180102_123619.jpg

magasqirt wiring diagram

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I am looking for a wiring diagram to install MS on a 280zx turbo. I get an error code when I look for mobythevan's thread on the subject. seem to be the go to thread but I can't find it.


Alternator Noise with MS2

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Hey guys,

 

I got the 240z running now which is great but getting some noise from the alternator.

 

I noticed this lately after my afr readings were different between the gauge and the ms2. I am using a lc-2. With the car off they read the same. With the car on they vary.

 

After seeing that result i decided to check all my grounds and moved them proper. I then unplugged my alternator and boom! They were both perfect. Plug it back in... bad again.

 

I decided it would be a good time to replace my alternator for a 280zx one which I did and still get the same result.

 

Has anyone had this issue and resolved it or do you just adjust your afr reading in ms2 to match the gauge?

 

Thanks for your help,

 

Shane

78 280Z NA MS2 Setup

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So I've gotten sick of attempting to fix this botched wiring job by the PO. I decided to just go ahead and completely replace the ancient efi system with something modern. I was wondering if this parts list looks complete. From scrounging various boards and posts I think I've gathered just about everything I will need. 

 

I'm a little intimidated by the whole thing so sureing this up will make me feel just a bit better. 

280z MS.PNG

Weird Idle?

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Hey everyone. We had the car running before bringing it to the tuner and it would cold idle a little a bit low on cold start up for a bit. However, after bringing the car back from the tuner i have a very strange cold idle issue. Please take a look at the youtube video link because im honestly not sure how to describe it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am very unhappy with the work the "tuner" did on the car and will end up having to bring it to someone else but i would like to get this resolved before hand.

 

Any ideas why this happens? L28ET running off a VR sensor with MS2

 

 

Sync loss reason 2

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Hello again. Seems as though i always have trouble with my setup so the current issue is very bad sync loss it makes the car undriveable sometimes when other times it doesnt happen for 5 minutes. Datalog shows sync loss reason 2.

 

Ms2

Stock injectors with resistors

Diy trigger wheel

Ngk plugs and wires

 

Aside from fixing and upgrading simple things (radiator intercooler headgasket timing chain brake upgrade) my engine bay has stayed the same for about a year

So realistically ive touched everything haha. But it hasnt always done this and my wiring mess has always been the same so electrical noode and ground dont seem like the sore thumb but they still could be it. 

Looking for Dyno tuner for MS2

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I am in Asheville,  nc  and I have a ms 2 extra 3.3 with the wiring harness. I am currently running a jwt remapped ecu (z31) . i want to convert over to MS. for my l28et. I am willing to travel to Charlotte or Atlanta if need be . Any recommendations ? looking for someone with  a dyno, knows mega squirt and is familiar with datsuns. 

Thanks 

Dan Carroll 

dc1298@hotmail.com 

current sensing tachometer

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So I've been doing some reading on this, and I want to make sure I got my ducks in a row before I spend money on an adapter.

Car is a 1973 240z, being converted to MS3x 3.57. Factory wiring is gone, no coil etc. Here is a pic of my tach, which if I understand correctly is the current sensing type.

IMG_20180408_151810.thumb.jpg.e3eb9c3734b28221b59984078abcc4f7.jpg

 

I've been reading this thread about using a MSD 8920 adaptor. And here is the manual provided by MSD

So from my understanding there are 4 wires on the MSD box.
1) Ground
2) Tach signal input
3) output to tach
4) violet (unused)

I connect the MS tach signal to wire #2. I take wire #3 and connect it to one end of the tach loop. I connect the other end of the tach loop to a +12v power when the car is running or starting. And I ground wire #1. Will this work?

The other option is using a TM-02-I from technoversions. The instruction manual can be found here.

1) One end of tach "loop" connected to +12V when running or starting

2) Other end of tach loop connected to pin 3 on the tach adaptor (with or without power resistor?)
3) Pin 1 connected to +12V when running or starting
4) Pin 2 connected to ground

5) Pin 5 connected to megasquirt tach output?

Also, on the technoversions adaptor manual, what is the difference between the two +12v sources?


 

Building MS2 V3 Board

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Hello everyone, I am a little confused on step 22 of assembly guide of the Megasquirt board. Talking about the ignition control module with MS2 

 

Isnt the ignition control the sensor on the Distributor?

 

I do not see any wiring diagrams for MS2 that show distributor, coil and igniter. 


So I am not sure on which connection to make on the board since :

  • The ignition signal going to MegaSquirt-II to the DB37 pin 24, as usual. This is connected to pin 14 of the 40 pin socket (IRQ), and pin #1 of the MC9S12C32 processor.
  • The signal from MegaSquirt-II™ to the module comes out on:
    • Pin #17 of the 40 pin socket (labeled IGN), and is connected to the 5th hole of the JP1 header (pin 8 of the MC9S12C32). It MAY be connected to DB37 pin #30 with V2.2 main boards, if jumpered as recommended.

       

    • Pin #36 on the DB37 (JS10 jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if not using the high current ignition driver circuit (HEI/EDIS/etc.),

       

    • Pin #36 of the DB37 for V3.0 main boards (IGBTOUT jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if using the IGBT high current ignition driver circuit.

      Note: If you are not using the high-current circuit to directly control a coil, you likely need to to add a pull-up resistor (which allows the signal to go both high and low, rather than floating and low).

 

Am i suppose to do the second bullet since it is a V3 board not using high current?


78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

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Hey All,

I just wanted to make a new topic because I have a bit of a more specific question and wanted to make sure I'm absolutely on the right path before I start modifying my board. So I bought a Megasquirt 2 3.57 Assembled board from DIY Autotune. It did not come with the BIP373 transistor (ordered and will be here today hopefully). I've attached pictures of my board and how it currently sits. 

 

I know the first thing I need to do is wire in the BIP373 transistor and follow the steps associated with that. Thats pretty straight forward. The problem I'm having is with triggering. I currently have a new 82/83 Turbo ZX Distributor with the trigger wheel from DIYAUTO. I also have the original trigger wheel that came with the dizzy, just not installed. I was wondering what is going to be my best bang for the buck way to set up triggering. Softopz mentioned going the route of the VR Conditioner. If thats the case, do I just follow the steps listed in the msextra manual (Attached to this post for ease of reading). What about setting up tunerstudio. Also should I be worried with all the wires currently ran on the back of my board. 

 

I should note I'm currently using a relay board and would like to keep it if possible. I'm not concerned with trying to have the most precision triggering possible, I just want to be able to have a car that I can drive again. 

20180413_065252 (1).jpg

20180413_065509 (1).jpg

ms21.PNG

ms22.PNG

Split second loss of power

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I am running Megasquirt 2 wired in similar to below wiring diagram with an 83 distributor and using the MAP sensor.

280zxt_relay_wiring.gif

 

Under very light/cruising conditions the power will suddenly drop out then come right back. Makes for a sudden jerk as driving.

Took it to a track day last year and didn't have any problems at continuous WOT.

 

As I type this I thought a deadspot in the TPS (although it was new 2 years ago when I installed MS) I'll check that tomorrow morning.

 

Any other ideas that I could look for or check? 

 

Thanks,

bryan

 

Microsquirt

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Hi everyone!  👋🏻  I’m about to buy a microsquirt ecu but I want to make sure it works with what I have planned...

L28 with P90 head N42 intake 70mm throttle body with TPS, MAP sensor on the intake, 440cc injectors low impedance, HY35 turbo 15lbs of boost, EDIS with Chrysler coil for spark, stock 72 240Z tack, wide band O2, 

 

does any of that sound like it won’t work with microsquirt?  

 

Also... should I buy the relay board? What benefit would the relay provide me?  

Chickenman Remote Tune Service Review

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Chickenman has been helping me tune my l28et running on megasquirt, and i felt compelled to write a review of his services.

I have had MS3 running on my car for over a year now. I purchased a pre-built ECU and pre-made wiring harness  from a forum member that is no longer able to provide support for his product. I don’t mind mechanical projects but I’m still pretty green when it comes to electrical systems, so i figured i would leave this part of the project to professionals. I got the car to run decently with some local help, but parts of the install and initial setup were incorrect and i had a few preexisting electrical issues. This winter i upgraded the turbo, injectors and needed to retune MS. I was interested in knowing more about how the MS system worked and to feel more comfortable working with it, so i reached out on HBZ for some help. Chickenman PM’d me and offered his remote running services at a VERY reasonable price. I honestly didn’t know what to expect, but i figured if i learned anything from the experience it would be worth it. It was very worth it.

 

Chickenman set me up with some pre-tune instructions and setup, the we setup a few hours for him to remotely control my laptop hooked up to the ECU for tuning. The tune i had previously done ran well but was masking all sorts of mechanical and electrical issues. Chickenman, did not let me keep these issues on my car and patiently instructed me on diagnosing and fixing them! I would have never expected so much patience and interest in seeing the project done right. By the end of the first running session we had a decent idle, a drive able VE table, working autotune and a list of miscellaneous  small issues to fix. Chickenman provided email support through the next few weeks helping me diagnose and fix most of the remaining issues. I sent him updated auto tunes, data logs, driving notes and he made edits to my tune. My car runs smother and faster than before, I also learned a lot about automotive electrical systems and MS. I feel much more confident and organized about my project and can’t recommend Chickenman’s services enough. While his services are all remote, i believe my car is running better in less time than it would have if i had taken it to someone local. I live in Detroit, and finding someone to tune an old foreign car on a lesser know ECU is hard and expensive. I could now take the car in its current state to  dyno tune timing and would save a lot of money and time.

 

Chickenman is professional, knowledgeable, patient, helpful and is excellent at communicating and teaching. If you are thinking about setting up MS and haven’t done it before, hire him. He will save you time, headache and you will probably learn something useful.

 

I highly recommend his services 10/10!

Thanks Chickenman :2thumbs:

Ms3x install

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Well this'll be the next step and progression for my Z, so I thought I would start a thread talking about my MS 3X install. My intentions are to have MS 3X run my ignition on my triple Mikuni carbs for now. Eventually I will go fuel injected but now I'm working on putting a plenum together.

 

I have been studying the mega manual on a daily basis trying to figure out how I'm going to do my initial wiring. I do have a few questions if anybody can answer them about the wiring.

 

As far as the wiring for the fuse box on the main plug. The example schematic shows the coil on just one fuse; with a COP coils would you still have it on just one fuse?

The schematic also shows splitting the injectors between two fuses -will that work for our engine?

 

I plan on running wasted spark -coil on plug ignition, so I do I will wire the injectors like I do with sequential and use the software formatting to make it wasted spark?

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