I have a 1983 L28ET, with Megasquirt 2 V3.0. I'm using direct coil control and have IGBTIN wired to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN. BIP373 is installed with mica insulator.

I'm having trouble getting a spark while cranking. I have always had issues with a weak spark and the car running rich when it would start up in the past. Although being able to get the car to start was intermittent. (Car is still a project and has never run well enough to put on a road.) I have used output test mode with one spark plug connected directly to the coil and get a good purple spark that way. However, with the spark plugs out of the engine I am not seeing any spark while cranking until I let off the key and then sometimes a spark or two will appear as the engine is still spinning after the starter is turned off.

I am getting about 11v at the coil while cranking. This is the only difference I can see between output test mode and cranking. With output test mode I have about 12.4v at the coil. Is 11v too weak to produce a spark?

I have a new coil, distributor rotor and cap, spark plug wires, condenser, and alternator (internally regulated).

I do get an RPM signal in tunerstudio when cranking. Although I have the crank rpm set to 200 and the tach in tunerstudio is reading around 350 rpm. Is this abnormal?

I'm running out of ideas as to what the issue could be. My next option is to just start throwing new parts at it and I'd rather not do that blindly.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi

I want to install megasquirt EMS on my NA L28. I will be fitting a turbo to it as well.

I found this distributor on ebay. Can I use it with megasquirt as I can't find a L28ET distributor?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Crank-Trigger-Igniton-Sensor-EFI-datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-L28-L20B-1633/323352983236?hash=item4b4956f6c4%3Ag%3AhdAAAOSwz4FbDC4M&_sacat=0&_nkw=l28et+distributor&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Hey guys,

Got my tune done on my 76' L28 280z last week and the numbers are a little lower than I expected.  Hoping you guys could help.  Attached are my tune, log file, and dyno printout.  Also, when the car gets hot (i live in Phoenix AZ) i love RPM signal and the car stutters

Stock header

Cold air intake

W45 Intake manifold

N47 head

AEM Wideband

MS2

235cc injectors

3 2.msl

fady miata Dyno final.msq

Hello I just finished building a ms2 3.0 ecu for the first time and I’m trying to get my 260z l28et swap going I have the injectors firing and all sensors working.  I’m getting spark but not consistent. 

I’m thinking the settings in tunerstudio are not right. I have the diyautotune trigger disc. In the l28et dizzy using a stock 260z coil. 

I have ignition input capture set on falling edge. 

I wasn’t too sure about cranking trigger but it’s set to calculated. 

Coil charging scheme at standard coil charge and spark output on going high(inverted)

The trigger offset is set at 345 degrees as instructed on the install guide. 

Skip pulses is set to 3 also not sure if that’s right. 

The trigger wheel teeth is set to 12 and 1 missing teeth. Also don’t know if I need to skip teeth or delay but both set to 0. 

Any input will help thanks. 

Alright HybridZ, don't let me down! I've been battling with my ITB's for a little bit now and am getting properly frustrated. They are great at wide open, but have a really serious bog on tip in. This is very evident in a 1-2 shift under full power, rather than having smooth power once in 2nd gear, it jerks for a half second, then ramps in power. For auto-x this is super frustrating since there is a LOT of throttle stabs, modulation etc that accentuate the issue. 

A little bit about the motor, its a L28 Rebello built auto-x motor, 63DE cam, 45mm OER ITB's, 440cc high impedance injectors and LS1 coil packs. I'm running an MS3/3x. Tune and log are attached, I'd love it if somebody was able to look in this and tell me if I'm missing something obvious, or if something just looks off. I've had the car on several dynos, and the power is pretty good once it chokes through the stumble/bog. I'm going to have the injectors flow tested tomorrow, hoping that there is some sort of mechanical issue at play here. Coils were replaced recently and in testing, I've got VERY strong spark. 

Let me know if there's anything else that I can post up or answer! Thanks!

Datsun Tune 2018-08-11.zip

The only conversation I could find on the topic via Google is here:

https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14646&start=25

And some other talk about it here:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/loguino-users/WFDGp9oZgd4

I know Splunk won't be for everyone, especially as getting it set up is a bit of work, but that said it's certainly something anyone could follow along with a screen capture session to get started with. And I know we don't REALLY need another log viewing tool, but I'd argue that there's a lot of value in being able to bring some "big data analytics" to the table when it comes to digging into logs. While most log viewers are focused on drilling down into small point in time info, splunk would allow you to look at data correlations across large numbers of logs. I'm no splunk expert by any means, but hopefully I can continue building stuff useful for myself, while I share with the community.

Right now the log ingestion is a bit specific, and could easily break if anything doesn't mimick my setup. So some known basic requirements if you want this to work with my splunk app:

1) Logs should be stored in the default path of c:\users\$user\documents\tuner studio\$project name\Datalogs

  The above $user and $project name will have to be different than mine but it's important the layout match.

2) I'm using the stock log format output. No custom field, using Tunerstudio free edition (plan to purchase in the next week or so). The field layout might differ in your firmware and/or tunerstudio version. Any changes to this will break the data lookups, as I've had to hard code the field extraction. Once I figure out how to automate that field extraction from the header row (which isn't a real header row.... grrrrrrr) then this requirement won't be an issue. Also, once you have your field extractor working, the dashboards should work regardless of what data you're logging (meaning it's JUST the field extractor that's hard coded, there's a few things I rely on, like "RPM" but it should all just work).

As far as release, I'm not quite there yet. I'll start a github repo and post some youtube videos once I get there.

But as a tease:

That represents less than a day of actual work from start to finish. One of the things I like about splunk is that it's relatively easy to build visualizations once you know the basics.

So I'm starting to plan on my dash and getting everything in order. I'd like to run a purely tablet driven dash. Most of the sensors I need are accessible via Raspberry Pi running Tuner Studio hooked up to my Megasquirt 2 (v 3.57). Is there anyway to also get readings like, oil pressure, fuel level, gps speed, through to tuner studio? 

Hi guys,

I have a MS2 V3board.

Map sensor, 240SX TPS (not currently used but connected)

AEM Wideband

fuel only

L28, N/A, Ported and polished head, Turbo injectors, stage 1 Isky cam, walbro.

Complete inox Header with 3 inches exhaust system.

I have 2 issues I would like to share with you.

1/ The first one is a light hesitation / stumble when I start from a standing point, after a trafic light for example.

When I press lightly the gas pedal, the engine will stumble and then act normal.

The AEM will read a lean condition for a second.

(If I floor the pedal I will also get the same problem)

My idle is pretty rich and goes between 13.5 - 14

Timing is OK and was modified (advanced or retarded) without effect on this particular problem.

Should I use TPS enrichment?

If yes, what kind of settings?

2/ When I bring the 3rd gear to 5000rpm (for example) and then release completely the gas pedal and coast (keeping the clutch engaged) MS will cut the fuel injection (which is normal).

My problem is if I stay in 3rd gear, let the RPM go down to 2500 and give it a little gas again then I will shoot to lean and the engine will hesitate for a couple of seconds and then back to normal.

Is this coming from the fact that the MAP sensor is getting the information with some lag in certain condition or that the information it receives is not relevant?

What should I do to correct this behaviour?

Can I use the TPS information to prevent this from happening?

Thanks

Cheers

Simon

Hey guys, wondering if anyone has run into this problem. I recently started rewiring my car after doing an engine out restoration. Plugging in the old MS 2 3.57 w/ relay board, and all the associated wires. I've found a problem where I was getting voltage on my ground (on the relay board). I was able to narrow it down to the Tach In terminal on the relay board. If I disconnect it, everything grounds right, if I plug it in, I can read 12V at my ground. Anyone have any idea what may be going on here? It does it even when the distributor wire is removed from the distributor. (Also I know the relay board is sacrilege, however I have it and its worked in the past, dont have the funds to upgrade past it at the moment). 

Since it seems the FAQ section can't be posted to, the Map sharing thread is effectively dead to new data. So I guess I'll just keep a running thread log of my tune and config as it changes.

I started my tune by taking the "example config" tables, and then adjusting to "ballpark" from what I was seeing in other people's threads. Not many people were running a setup like mine, so it was difficult to get close, so I tried to err on the side of safety for most of my maps and I've slowly been edging them closer. My ignition map was far too aggressive to start with, and in some areas still is, but I've been pretty happy with the performance thus far on this combo, despite everyone's warnings of compression, detonation, and not being "good for boost".

My setup:

F54 turbo bottom (dish pistons)

MN47 Head (factory through and through for now)

Factory T3 (likely the first thing getting replaced) running on factory wastegate (6-7 psi depending on how it feels today)

NON-Intercooled (one of my defining self-limitations, I'm keeping it this way)

Non-EGR N42 Intake manifold

DIY Autotune Dizzy Trigger Wheel

Bosch Blue 260cc o-ring injectors (Ford T-Bird and others) running sequentially

Pallnet Fuel Rail

Factory fuel pump

Factory fuel regulator

Factory fuel filter

Factory fuel damper still in place

Tuning on CA Pump 91

Flex fuel sensor installed, showing my pump gas indeed is between 9-11% ethanol

D585 LS Coils running COP

Now, Configs:

(I'm only posting windows of which I've altered settings)

Basic/Load Settings

Fuel Settings

Ignition Settings

Startup/Idle (I don't think I've changed much here other than WUE)

Accel Enrich (lot of work to do here still)

Advanced Engine

I've also attached my tune file:

CurrentTune.msq

And the last tuning run logs:

2019-03-02_10.38.01.msl.zip

NOTE: The above tune file and tables have been updated since that last log, so if viewing in MegaLogViewer the table data won't align properly.

I'll likely be updating this regularly over the next few months as I'm making changes often. In no way do I recommend just copy/pasting any of these settings/values without understanding the risks. I make no guarantees for the validity of this data or lack of harm to your engine.

Hi all, hoping this is a better place to put these few questions than on my build thread.

Firstly, it's important to note that I got the v3.57 MS3X I have from a past member here along with his old chassis who moved on to a Porsche project. It was purchased new and never used, the harness was mostly done and for the most part has been really easy to start finishing with the bits of free time I have! I've double checked almost all of the pin outs at this point along with making sure that cables are going to the correct colors, and most everything seems totally normal. The only wires that aren't pinned right now are ones I would never have used and the past owner seems to have done a mostly great job on the harness.

There's one thing I'm concerned about though. On the main plug, the crank sensor ground and input should both be in the shielded wire correct? My issue is that the sensor ground in the shielded wire is supposed to be going to Pin #1 and it's pinned to 8 right now which is listed as a spare gnd. The crank sensor shield is also listed as Pin #2, but that just seems to be another ground wire on my harness that was routed out towards the sensors. The extra wire in the shielded cable that should be in Pn #2 on the hardware guide just seems to have been spliced into one of the chassis grounds. Will either of these things cause issues. Do I need to do a few repins?

My last hold up is the sensor grounds. They're all listed as going to the Black/White cable, I'm not entirely sure of the best practice for splicing them, but I can figure that out. My concern is that the black/white is supposed to be Pin #7 according to the hardware guide, but is pinned to #9 on my harness (another one listed as a spare gnd), and there's nothing in Pin #7.

Just want to thank all of my past customers and current customers for their support. But I am taking an indefinite break from Remote Tuning.  It's turned out to be too successful, so much that I no longer have time for my own projects.  I haven't driven worked on my own 280Z in Ages, and I find I'm spending far too many hours staring at Computer screens.  So I'm going to take an extended break and enjoy life . Time to travel and enjoy my retirement. 

I'll be finishing off  Tunes and details with past and current customers. But I will not be taking on any new customers in the foreseeable future:. Thank you all for your support.

Richard Boyk 

Alright, so in my infinite wisdom (read: very flawed) I had planned on tying into the Speedhut sensor harnesses for ECT and oil pressure inputs for the MS3pro. But, now that I'm looking at the wiring diagrams, the MS3 has a dedicated sensor return/ground whereas the Speedhut gauges just use chassis ground ( at least on the gauge side).  Now I'm kind of stuck as I'm concerned sharing potentially dissimilar ground planes may screw up more important readings like the cam/crank signals.

So, I've got three options as I see it:

Try tying both the signal and return/ground together (ms3 sensor input and speedhut sensor harness) in the gauge harness before the gauge.

Run the sensor right to the MS3 and try to use one of the analog outputs to replicate the sensor output to the Speedhut harness.

Suck it up and run a dedicated ECT and oil pressure sensor for the MS3pro.

Anyone else run into this?

The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables.

Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way.

I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0

I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want.

Any advice would be amazing.

Hi Guy's,

Man am I having trouble getting this thing to run using the new ECU. A little background, the car was running fine up until I decided to "upgrade" the ECU lol It has been running for over 10 years using an Electromotive TEC II. Switching to a MS3 Pro. I'm using all of the same sensors that I used on the TEC. coils are DIY's 3 pack running in wasted spark mode.

First attempt, it started but didn't run very long and was pig rich. I looked at my old TEC tune and noticed the required fuel was a lot higher on the MS3 so I dropped it a bit. Same situation, started, but didn't run for long, maybe 4-5 seconds. So now I start troubleshooting from scratch and find the first coil in the pack isn't firing so basically I'm running on 4 cylinders. Gotta be it! Not quite. To make this part of the story a little shorter, the Quad Spark that I received was defective. It had the output going to that pack grounded so if the Quad Spark was mounted, no spark to 1 and 6.

Now I have a new QuadSpark but she still won't run. Spit and sputter but that is it. Since I am using a trigger wheel that I mounted to the balancer for the TEC, I'm starting to question myself on where I have the pickup mounted. I'm sure the pickup was mounted at the 11th tooth after the space would put it at 66 degrees but..... 

Did everyone else have this much trouble getting their MS3 to run?

Joe

Hey, I was wondering if anyone knows if its possible to use the factory tachometer (78 280z), with a megasquirt 2. I tried taking the line that typicall goes from the resistor, and replaced it with the line that I send to the megasquirt, but to no avail. 

Hello everyone, I am a little confused on step 22 of assembly guide of the Megasquirt board. Talking about the ignition control module with MS2 

Isnt the ignition control the sensor on the Distributor?

I do not see any wiring diagrams for MS2 that show distributor, coil and igniter. 

So I am not sure on which connection to make on the board since :

• The ignition signal going to MegaSquirt-II to the DB37 pin 24, as usual. This is connected to pin 14 of the 40 pin socket (IRQ), and pin ^#1 of the MC9S12C32 processor.
• The signal from MegaSquirt-II™ to the module comes out on:
  • Pin #17 of the 40 pin socket (labeled IGN), and is connected to the 5^th hole of the JP1 header (pin 8 of the MC9S12C32). It MAY be connected to DB37 pin #30 with V2.2 main boards, if jumpered as recommended.

     

  • Pin #36 on the DB37 (JS10 jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if not using the high current ignition driver circuit (HEI/EDIS/etc.),

     

  • Pin #36 of the DB37 for V3.0 main boards (IGBTOUT jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if using the IGBT high current ignition driver circuit.

    Note: If you are not using the high-current circuit to directly control a coil, you likely need to to add a pull-up resistor (which allows the signal to go both high and low, rather than floating and low).

Am i suppose to do the second bullet since it is a V3 board not using high current?

Hey guys, I'm trying to finish up a L28et swap into my 1977 280z. engine came from another 280z car that was swapped a long time ago. I got a new harness and wired everything up but I'm not getting spark. When I crank the motor the ECU is getting RPM, firing the injectors, and the FIDLE LED is blinking but a spark plug placed on the valve cover doesn't produce spark. I followed the mobythevan post and put in the drop resistors to the dist and HEI module. The coil + has the condensor connected to the dist, 12v from ignition, and B from HEI. the coil - has the blue tach wire and C from the HEI.

How can I test the HEI module is sending the signal correctly to the coil, and then the coil is sending to the dist?

To start with, here's a rundown on the setup:

'78 280z

-L28ET, 0.5mm overbore, ITM pistons, full internal balance

-Late 'A' grind cam from a late Z/early ZX

-Rebuilt head: Minor port cleanup and 5 angle valve cut

-'76 non-emmissions intake, stock turbo TB with 240SX TPS

-Custom equal length header with Nissan 45v1 turbo (R33 GTS-25t), 8 psi wastegate actuator 

-Denso 440cc fuel injectors (Mk3 Supra) with stock Z resistor pack

Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator set to 26 psi @idle, rises to 30 psi when throttled

-Ford EDIS 6 ignition system: Explorer controller, '06 Mustang coil pack, Escort 1.9 CKP sensor, custom 36-1 trigger wheel and sensor bracket

Running MS2 V3.0, firmware 3.4.1, ZXT chts, GM iat sensor, no idle air control, although I eventually plan to use the factory fast idle valve. 

Also using an Innovate SCG-1 wideband/boost controller. 

My problems are: it will barely start, especially when the engine is warm, and will not idle on its own, requiring constant blipping of the throttle. When attempting to rev the engine or even keep it running, it backfires out the tailpipe, which tells me it's running rich, and yet it will occasionally pop through the intake, which tells me "lean". The wideband's display is all over the place, reading pig rich when starting and running for the first bit, then it starts jumping randomly between 12:1 and around 16:1. Then if you either leave it to idle or press the gas, it just gives up and leans dead... 

The chts and tps are already calibrated, I've gone through various tunes, even changing cells, only for it to kind of work better, but have another aspect of it worse (eg. Better idle but worse intake popping). Currently trying one of Cygnus' older map sets since their engine setup is similar to mine. 

Here's some pics of what I have so far. I'm looking for some insight on this. Another important thing to note, is that I live in Alberta, Canada, which is roughly 3500 ft above sea level, which might skew timing and fuel a bunch. 

I appreciate any help. 

2019-09-13_16.46.35.msq 2019-09-13_16.04.34.csv